Seasons

Buttresses facing North, North East and North West. Hot in Summer but shade can be found at various times of day. Warm and sunny in Winter – a great Winter crag. As a general rule the crags on the right of the river (facing downstream) are in shade in the morning while the crags on the left are in shade in the afternoon.

Rock and topography

Quartzite with marked variations in colour and texture. A friable shale layer lies under the quartzite and is very visible just North East of the crags along the river. Some areas, particularly the NW sector, have a very ‘alpine’ feel with unpleasant falls awaiting the unwary belayer. The very uneven terrain can be disorienting. Please consider using the belay safety bolts (painted black) provided at the start of some climbs.

Gear

60 metre rope and up to 12 quickdraws. So far there are 5x25m climbs and one link-up of 31m, in addition to many shorter lines. Extra slings and screwgates may be useful for use with the belay safety bolts. Climbs are equipped with the finest stainless steel hangers made in SA, attached by Hilti HSA-R M10x68mm stainless steel bolts, for your climbing pleasure! 8mm Maillons rated at 15kN are used at anchors and/or rated galvanized chain. Many hangers are painted to lessen environmental impact, more will be painted over time.

Getting there

King’s Kloof lies in the Chancliff district of Krugersdorp

From Krugersdorp: Leave Krugersdorp taking Paardekraal Road NE. Take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left (uphill) at RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

From everywhere else: Get to the big 4-way robot at the SW end of the Pretoria Highway (N14 meets M47 {Hendrik Potgeiter} meets R28). Large Sasol garage on corner. Go up the long hill towards Krugersdorp (R28) and take the exit for Robert Broom Drive and left onto RBD. Turn first right into Clifford Road and second left into Edward Road. Drive all the way to the brick wall ahead and follow the road next to it which takes you to the Achterbergh gate. Continue (slowly) down to the bridge.

Go over the bridge and parking is immediately on the right as you come over the bridge. Try not to park further down the field than the obvious climbing information sign.

Booking in

On arrival, please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge. Pay R30 per person and sign the indemnity form. If you cannot find Derek the indemnity form is in a grey metal box on a post next to the house. Sign in, put your money in the tin and please be honest! Your money goes to the landowners who have been kind enough to open this area up to us.

Accommodation

Accommodation is available by contacting Derek Schneider at Rocky Valley (083 326 8618), or Betsie Slippers at Achterbergh (011 954 5533). There is no camping or bivouacing allowed.

Guide conventions

Route names are followed by the consensus grade and (number of bolts + two anchors). Thus you will know how many quickdraws you need to climb the route and you can choose an appropriate belay method at the anchors. ‘S’ indicates that a safety bolt has been provided on the climb. Routes are described left to right. Comments on grades, etc are welcomed at http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ under ‘Area Updates and New Routes’. Be nice, we’ve done our best!

The climbing

The climbing is divided into four areas: Kings Kloof NW, NE, SW and SE. The river runs downstream pretty much northwards so the arrangement of the areas should be obvious. There is a prominent sign along the path to King’s Kloof NW which shows the climbing areas. Currently the most developed area is NW, with routes appearing at NE and soon some harder routes at SE. Watch this guide for updates.

Special Access Conditions

Access has been granted through negotiation with the two religious organisations who own the land. There must be no alcohol at the crag and names of new routes must have respectful Christian connotations. Remember: the Lord giveth, the Lord taketh away (Job 1:21) so please heed these conditions. Please read ‘Crag Rules’.

Crag Rules

In order to make sure we always have access to this crag, the following rules must be adhered to when visiting the area.

• No alcohol permitted.
• Take home all litter and refuse, (including all fruit peels and cigarette butts).
• No unnecessary destroying of vegetation.
• No interference with any animal life.
• No fires.
• No soap or any other detergents or chemicals allowed in or near the river.
• No playing of loud music/radios.
• No Graffiti or any defacing of the rocks.
• Toilet activities must be more than 60m from any permanent water and no trace must be visible after the activity. It is preferable that no toilet paper at all is left at Rocky Valley.
• Be polite and courteous to all staff and management of the land owners.
• The area is to be used for climbing and the following other activities are not permitted: fishing, quad or any other motorised biking, hunting, and any other activity which does not comply with the law of the country or the rules of the landowner.

King’s Kloof South

From the parking area take the path upstream

Update as per forum discussion here: http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=45660

South East, from left to right:

1. [4D, A] – 17 –

2. [5D, A] – 19 –

3. [7D, A] – 25 – Big fluffy Christan bunny – Move up and left over hard terain then straight up at arete. FA: Evan Margetts

4. [6D, A] – 21 – Follow the obvious crack to a ledge and then break out slightly left.

5. [6D, A] – 21 – Starts on rock mound, come off on lead and you will land in tree.

7. [9D, A] – 19 – Shares 6 draws and anchors with climb to right. Starts on rock mound up smooth overhang shares chains with climb on right.

8. [7D, A] – 19 – Straight up the main crack.

9. [8D, A] – 22 – Move diagonally and up right using side pulls and then break out right of the arete.

10.[8D, A] – 20 – Traverse left under roof on easy rock, then through overhang and tops out left. FA The Hungarians 2012

11. [?, A] – 25? – Name unknown. Up the corner then break through the big roofs. FA: Neil Margetts 2012

12. [9D?, A] – 29 – Name unknown. BB: Pierre Carter, FA Dylan Vogt 2011

13. [5D, A] – 22 – Hard start into real easy climbing. BB David Tapp

14. [4D, A] – 17 – Crosses over the 14. BB David Tapp

15. [7D, A] – 14 – Climb moves diagonally left up a decent ledge. Best to clean on top rope since the route runs diagonally left. FA Neil Margetts 2012

16. [9D, A] – 17 – Pharaoh’s Face – Fun face climb. FA Pierre Joubert 2011

17. [7D, A] – 18**** – Pulls through little overhang onto face above. Technical and fun. FA Neil Margetts 2011

18. [7D, A] – 15 – Crux is at the start, great warm up climb. FA Neil Margetts 2011

19. [6D, A] – 13 – Abel’s Arete – Last route on the right when facing the crag. On angle, shares chains with 15 next door. Best to clean on top rope since the climb goes diagonally left. FA Pierre Joubert 2011

King’s Kloof SW

From the parking lot, walk upstream on the left hand side of the river (looking upstream) until just before where the path splits to go to the SE sector. Turn right here, rock hop over the river. Get to the base of a slightly vegetated slab. Scramble up this carefully for about 20m (this is tricky when wet) until you see one route on the face above you on the left.

1. Thou shalt not judge – [4D, A] 23 – Short but business straight off the deck. Scramble up the slab to the base where there are 2 bolts for your belayer. 10 moves, steep and technical. BB: Pierre Joubert. FA: Matt Hoffman Nov 2012

King’s Kloof NW

From the parking area take the path downstream until you can see a rising rock ramp with the obvious chain scramble at the top.

Care with rope management, drag, sharp edges, top-roping and pendulums – so that’s about everything, really!

River face: pass to the right of the rock ramp, taking the path to a steep and broken face.

DAMNATION (15M) 17* [?B+A]
Traverse left to the roof, over this and back right to the anchors. The start can be wet in Summer. First Ascent: Neil Margetts June 2010.

Main faces: Approach up the rock ramp to the chain scramble

There are at least three lines to the left as you ascend the ramp. They are essentially highball boulder problems which will probably be bolted due to the very bad landing. There are anchors. Please take care with top-roping here so as not to swing out and send passers-by to their doom!

Open Project – not yet bolted

Open Project – not yet bolted

Neil’s Project 24? – not yet bolted

The next two routes start just before the chain scramble:

EVE VARIATION (25M) 18** [9B+A] S
The left start to Adam’s Rib, starting up the steep crack and block at 18, then joining the main route. Rope drag may be a problem when lowering off. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

ADAM’S RIB (25M) 16** [8B+A] S
Starts to the right of Eve and takes the left line of bolts on the wall above, over the two overhangs. Again, rope drag may be an issue. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

And, above the chain scramble:

WALL OF JERICHO (15M) 14*** [5B+A] S
Line of bolts just left of the dead tree at ¾ height. Very serious injury will meet both climber and belayer if the climber falls before clipping the first bolt. Note safety bolt. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN (10M) 15*** [5B+A] S
Start at the sentry box and traverse right across the wall, to exit up the roof-capped corner.. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

THE SERPENT (10M) 20** [5B+A] S
Powerful moves left and up to exit on the right side of the headwall; easier if you’re tall.. First Ascent: David Tapp, July 2010

THE APPLE (8M) 21*** [6B+A] S
Strenuous moves up and left to the large block then up to the chains. First ascent: David Tapp January 2011

ELIJAH’S FLYING CHARIOT (7M) 21** [5B+A] S
Climb just right of the green groove. Anchors shared with Genesis. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, August 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

GENESIS (6M) 18** [5B+A] S
Climbs the crack up the short face 2m to the left of the tree. This was the first climb opened at King’s Kloof. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

ZACHARIAS’ TREE (5M) 19* [4B+A]
This climbs the short blank face behind the tree. To get the grade, climb just right of the bolt line. Left is easier. . First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

R.I.V. (25M) 13*** [8B+A] S
Start just left of the cross. Traverse gently left to finish on the arête at the top. Climb bolt to bolt; no escaping onto the big ledges! First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

DRAGON SLAYERS (12M) 15 [5B+A] No star rating yet Start as for CFD, on the block. Traverse left and up the wall to curve back right to the anchors. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

CRAZY FLYING DEMONS (12M) 13 [5B+A] No star rating yet
Start on a block in the corner. Climbs the corner chimney/crack. Anchors shared with DS. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011 Variation 19: Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

Variation 19 No star rating yet
Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner. First ascent: Neil Margetts January 2011

The next routes to the right are found on the Dark Side Buttress with the large and prominent overhang:

HELLFIRE (15M) 23*** [7B+A] S
Bridge up the wide crack and move right onto the wall. Difficult moves over the overhang lead to a finish back left. First ascent: Neil Margetts November 2010. Bolted by David Tapp

Neil’s project (Hellfire Direct)

Dave’s project (17m) 21??(6B+A)

TURN OR BURN (17M) 23**** [6B+A] S
Start 4m to the right of Hellfire. Climb up and over the overhang, then boldly up the headwall to the anchors. First Ascent: Wesley Black September 2010

TURN AND BURN (17M) 25 No star rating yet [6B+A]
Variation of “Turn or Burn” forking out right by the second last bolt. First Ascent: Johannes Hachmann 2015. Bolted Neil and Johannes 2012

ARMAGEDDON (23M) 19*** [7B+A] S
Starts 1m right of ToB at a vertical crack. The route crosses WoS at half height to finish 2m right of it. Climb up the thin crack until one can traverse right, crossing WoS. Climb up to a small ledge. Continue above the ledge on steep rock to a recess in the roofs above, and the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts, September 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

THE WAGES OF SIN (20M) 22**** [6B+A]
Starts just right of Armageddon, crosses it at half height and finishes 2m to its left. Traverse right under a bulge using obvious underclings and up to easier ground. Continue straight up to a large rail near a prominent, diamond-shaped white block. From here climb straight through the roofs directly above exiting left at the top to the anchors. First Ascent: Neil Margetts December 2010

GOLGOTHA (25M) 19**** [10B+A]
Technical lower section leads to a slab and a step left across the abyss. Exposed finish (17) up the overhangs. Note: Having clipped the bolt past the slab, unclip the slab bolt to lessen rope drag. First Ascent: David Tapp June 2010

THE FOURTH BEAST (7M) 18 [?B+A]
Start 3m left of TFH. Move up on large holds and left across a slab. Strenuous moves with fingery holds lead to a groove. Up this to the anchors. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011. Bolted by Neil Margetts.

VARIATION 15 No star rating yet
Move up on large holds as for the main climb. Continue up and traverse left into the groove on good holds. First ascent?

THE FOUR HORSEMEN (25M) 12*** [8B+A]
Start in a crack and corner feature at the left end of easy slabs. Climb up and over the bulge just right of the bolts, then up the slab, trending left until under the overhangs. Climb the groove above, to the anchors. First ascent: Taryn Van Olden December 2010. Bolted by David Tapp.

VARIATION 15
An alternative start which takes the off-balance groove/crack on the left of the first bolt. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

CRUCIFIXION(15m) 21*** [7B+A]
This climb is way right of the last one but the cave it’s in is an obvious feature. Start just left of the bigger cave on the far right of the crag. Move up (with difficulty if short) to an off-balance rest and then do a series of strenuous moves right to get established on the headwall. Climb the headwall trending left to the chains. First ascent Neil Margetts Feb 2011

King’s Kloof NE

Directly across the river from KK NW. Approach this buttress along the Rocky Valley path from the car park and cross the river via stepping stones among the eucalyptus. The next two climbs can be run together as a 31m outing. A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

In order from the bottom of the hill towards the top, right to left

NARROW IS THE GATE (22M) 13 No star rating yet [?B,A]
Lower tier. Start 4m right of TWM. Follow the bolts as they wander right and left to the platform under SITW. First ascent: David Tapp February 2011

STRAIGHT IS THE WAY (8M) 19/20? No star rating yet [?B,A]
Upper tier. From the large platform between upper and lower tiers climb the prominent z-crack and traverse left to the chains. All praise to the first ascensionist (name?) who climbed this line on trad gear in the 1970s. Bolted by David Tapp Feb 2011.

Again, the next two climbs can be run together as a 30m pitch, though you’ll fall a long way on rope stretch if you come off at the top of SITW. Don’t hit the platform! A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

THREE WISE MEN (20M) 15 No star rating yet [?B+A]
Lower tier, starting at a shield-shaped bulge just left of the middle of the main face. Climb up and over the bulge into a small recess and easier climbing. Scramble to anchors. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

ANGEL OF MERCY (11M) 17*** [?B+A]
Upper tier – continuation of TWM – Scramble slightly left until below a balancy face. Climb this to a short traverse left and up steeply left to the anchors on the left side of the overhang. Use 60m rope if lowering to the ground. First Ascent: David Tapp February 2011.

Walk pass THREE WISE MEN, up the hill until the smooth orange slab on your right. Route starts under the tree. Great route for beginners to hone their Multi pitch skills on. Great view of Kings kloof. You can Abseil with a 60 meter rope, but tie knots in the ends. You will just reach the ground with rope stretch.

SEEDS WE SOW(2PITCH) 12 No star rating yet [7B,A]
Bolted by Johan Moelich June 2012 FA: Johan Moelich and Niel Margetts

1st Pitch (12M)12 [6B+A] – Climb Diagonal left until ledge. Great stance for a big group of climbers. Crux right at end of pitch.

2nd Pitch (18M)11 [7B+A] – Climb left, up the arête, from 3rd bolt traverse right to small “slab”. Straight up from there to the chains.

Courtesy of Climb ZA